Kgalagadi District

The reception at Zutshwa was warm. I'd managed to send a message ahead of me through Pedris, a man from Ngwatle the next village who works as a mechanic at Hukuntis where there's cellular network. zutshwa had not had anyone visit them to buy crafts since last year when I was around.

With Pedris acting as secretary we managed to buzz through all our agenda items in a few short hours. In contrast, in prior trips I'd been exhausted by marathon buying sessions and small squabbles that erupted. It tends that the community of Zutshwa is divided along tribal lines. The 'Basarwa' (San, Bushmen) and the 'BaKgalagadi' don't get along. The Village Development Committee, the small shops and shebeens (drinking places) are dominated by BaKgalagadi to the exclusion of the Bushmen. I became aware that some of the shebeen owners had been taking beadwork in exchange for cheap alcohol the type of which bubbles and roils in a large garbage pail under the hot sun of the desert. This is a practice I'll have to investigate. I may demand that all sellers bring their tools with them as proof understanding that some Bakgalagadi do make the beads. Otherwise I might just identify those guilty parties and bring some cheap booze to exchange, of course doing this they'd only sell it to Basarwa.

The perception of Basarwa is that they are all drunkards and certainly some are. At Zutshwa it seems that none of the prolific artists drink. This seems natural to me and even those who do drink have a choice of what to do with their money, as do I.

The last item on our agenda for the day was something I'd proposed last year that was met with a favourable response. Hon. Royal /Ui/o/oo had been to Canada in June 2005 and his visit coincided with Aboriginal Solidarity Day in late June. Anishnabeg outreach in Kitchener and Guelph made a connection with Royal and from that we have been inspired to again organize a visit to Canada for a San person, or perhaps two.

At Zutshwa a candidate was nominated with the following letter:

Zutswha Settlement
PO BOX 450
Hukuntsi

22 January 2007

Dear Sir/Madam

We as San group of Zutshwa we really thanked our creator to give power of support on exchanging our natural craft from you and paid us a good price.

Realy this method of exchanging goods of us, succed us very well as the group of San living in zutshwa. Because that money improve our life time and also improve the lack of jobs that are in Zutshwa. This exchanging of our culture and support so that we cannot forgotten our culture.

We thanked the good co-operation between Canada and our nation. The only San group of Zutshwa we voted our San lady to represent us on craft business together with sepreding our culture. We can help her the stories of our culture as the elders of the San fro Zutshwa.

We want our own lady who is twenty to work together with Mr. Pholo whom is from Canada under the help from the University of Botswana.She have two year experience on facilities of Huminities and Book keeping.

We would be pleased when our letter would be taken into consideration.

Leader of the Community:

A.B Kabatlophane
Kooka Hewa
Tantane Koto
Mmina Nai

Although it doesn't clearly mention it, the letter is meant to nominate AB's daughter, Gosaitse Kabatlophane. Gosaitse travelled out with me from Zutshwa to Hukuntsi with some other papers, a reference letter from a professor at the University of Botswana to whom she'd been a research informant and a certificate from Botswana's Department of Industrial Affairs indicating her inclusion in a course in 'Improve Your Business' for five days in June 2004.

I was a little disappointed that on the day all of our activities Gosaitse missed the 2 o'clock start of our meeting, apparently to have a nap. She did however redeem herself when she told a nice story about a lizard and a frog.

On Sunday we made it to Ngwatle. The Government of Botswana had been delivering a development which pleased the people. A road linking Ngwatle to Ukwi. As I drove on the partially completed road I found myself on one side blocked by large piles of gravel and on the other sand piled high. I looked for a spot where somebody else had made it out and 4x4'ed through it. Immediately I noticed that the steering had become tight when turning to the left. This problem progressed as we moved eventually spreading to the left.

At Ngwatle the community was pleasantly welcoming. The old ladies have taken to yelling my name and asking me questions in !Xoo. They think my name is Apollo since there's another Apollo at Zutshwa so they know that name. For me I can say that I like it.

Ngwatle was not having as much time to make ready nominations to come to Canada but they did present two Candidates and their Qualifications.

1

Name: Bontle Doreen
Surname: Lesetlhe
Age: 24 yrs
Qualifications:

*Form 5 Certificate (BACSE)
*Katatura Arts Attendance Certificate (Windhoek)

2

Name: Kaki Katji
surname: Matlakala
Age: 1971
Qualifications:

Two JC
Assistant Shop keeper / Gantsi Craft
Councillor 3 yrs
Land Board Member 3 yrs

Both candidates speak english well and are excellent crafts people. On leaving Kaki asked me if I could find her a tent for 200 pula or less that I should do so.

I was please with results at both settlements but not with the condition of my steering wheel. Things seemed very fine until I wanted to turn. I guess there was also a problem with overheating on the Zutshwa-Ngwatle road but to be honest it's normal and not a problem these days. Bring plenty of water on that road.

On arriving with in Hukuntsi we went to the MP's office to make copies but found there was no paper. So we went to the next place and found paper and a working copier. To me small things can seem like miracles.

Next stop was to my good friend Paul Cooper, mechanic and Shell filling station owner. Paul is interesting and nice but also lonely. We like each other since we have the same name. On the way in I'd told the fillers of the filling station to let Paul know that I'm around. Always when in this neighborhood something can go wrong with the car of mine.

True to form I figured I had either a problem with powersteering or perhaps alignment. Step 1, check power steering fluid. Empty. We refilled from a fresh bottle and started the engine. Power steering fluid sprayed out through a gaping hole in a calbe directly below the place we'd just replaced the fluid.

Paul went to the back, found some tube, cut the right length, and replace the rotten piece. Total fixing time, eight minutes. Another miracle.

I stayed to chat few minutes with Paul and he indicated he had a special delivery for me to make to a friend in Canada. She can't get Camphor lotion, a staple skin supplement in Botswana and Southern Africa. So I agreed to take a couple bottles with me to be sent to Edmonton upon my return home.

As was bound to happen sometimes people get fascinated by Bushmen. One lady who had an affinity was Danni Stor. In 2005, July I'd met her by getting yelled at. She was incensed that I could be exploiting the Bushmen by selling there crafts. Somedays I have time for this sort of stuff other days I want to tell them to 'f' off.

This day I had a better strategy. I told her not to talk to me. Instead I recommended that she go and address this issue to a Bushmen and to tell that person not to allow me to exploit them. She seemed put off that I would suggest this and asked where she'd be able to find such a Bushman at Queen's Park in Toront. Luckily Hon. Royal was there and I called him over leaving the rest of the matter to him.

At some point Danni contacted me via e-mail to say that she was in the negihborhood of Africa and when was I coming, etc.

We connected by text message once I got my Botswana phone. I encouraged her to go to Ghanzi and she created a sensation by aligning herself with Jumanda Gakelebone, number two at First People of the Kalahari. I may never know exactly what happened in those six days in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve but speculation is that love happened. If only someone could get a romantic photo of them together it might be sold to Botswana's national tabloid the Voice (www.thevoicebw.com or something like that, please google) who had picked Jumanda as one of Botswana's most eligible single people.

As I write this Danni has turned up the radio and is being a dancing queen to Abba's hit. Me, I'm sitting at a lodge in Gobabis, Namibia hoping to do some investigations into craft production in the Omaheke Region. Oh, now she's in the pool.

At Hukuntsi I'd left Danni to eat at Lancers, Hukuntsi's nicest (only?) restaraunt. Unfortunately, being a vegetarian and having a wheat allergy Danni is continually having trouble finding cheese and good yoghurts. I think she missed on both counts.

I was happy when I picked her up after only a couple hours having gotten three copies and fixed the power steering issue. She wasn't as impressed with this accomplishment as me but still it was pretty fantastic. Those things can take two days if luck isn't with you or if you don't know Paul Cooper.

By chance as we left Hukuntsi to Kang Jumanda was in touch on Danni's cell. He'd come out from Central Kalahari Game Reserve because the President of Botswana had called a Kgotla meeting at New Xade reservation. 40 people had returned to the CKGR after a battle. Jumanda indicated that he'd "told off" the President and had been called to his office for a meeting today (Wednesday). I was shy to take a photo as I'm not a paparazzi but perhaps there was a hug and even a cheek peck but I don't think I can substantiate any rumours at this point.

So today it's Omaheke. The OST (Omaheke San Trust) Craft Shop which had opened with a flourish a few years back has collapsed. So no one is buying anything from anyone here. I'll see what's happening today and tomorrow.